Christian Cowan: Down by the River
"Clarisse is Dead, and So Am I—Christian Cowan’s Killer Collection Owns Fashion Week"
Beyond the theatrics, it was Cowan’s collection that stole the night.
Words by Monique Johnson
by Lara Ohl
Christian Cowan stood tall against the evening skyline of New York, his sharp jawline cutting through the soft light of the setting sun. His face, the kind that seems impervious to time or trend—truly, a face card that never declines—was framed by soft waves peeking out from under a Harris Walz baseball cap, a camouflage print that nodded quietly to where he stood in the political landscape. As for the rest of his look, it was pure Cowan: a sleek satin blazer, its lines so sharp they might as well be tailor-made for his towering frame, and pinned to his chest, a single metallic rose. The rose, dipped in silver, seemed both a symbol of fragility and strength—an accessory that whispered elegance rather than screamed it, much like the man himself.
Standing there, you could sense the controlled energy beneath his calm exterior. There was something effortless about him, as though he was letting you in on a secret, fully aware of the drama about to unfold on the runway. He was relaxed, cool, and a touch mischievous. Tonight, his models wouldn’t just walk the catwalk; they would flee it, playing out a narrative of high-glamour horror, where style and suspense merged into one seamless production.
As the lights along the East River lit up, casting an ethereal glow on the runway, the imaginary story began to unfold.
by Lara Ohl
As Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde: Overture played, the room was suddenly interrupted by Clarice, clutching her Verdura Stardust necklace as she collapsed against the golden De Gournay wallpaper. Her eyes widened in horror as she realized, too late, that her martini was poisoned. With a gasp, she grabbed the tablecloth, sending the Bergdorf-bought contents crashing to the floor. Panic ensued as guests rushed to help her, but their attention quickly turned to the flash of taffeta and fur fleeing the scene. 'AFTER HER!' they cried. What was once Vienna’s ball of the season had now become the most glamorous hunt for a killer.
Beyond the theatrics, it was Cowan’s collection that stole the night. The first look set the tone: a white satin bra top, delicate with lace trim, paired with a shredded bubble skirt. It was as if the model had narrowly escaped a fabulous assassination attempt, her outfit torn in the frenzy of the night. The blend of innocence and chaos was undeniably iconic.
I couldn’t leave the show without chatting with Christian to go deeper into the inspiration behind this cinematic spectacle and to learn a bit more about the man behind the designs.
As he stood across from me, poised before a night of high fashion and high drama, our conversation began like this:
Monique Johnson: What is the central inspiration behind your upcoming NYFW collection?
Christian Cowan: "I watched this film recently, Madame Sin, a classic Bette Davis movie. It was all about this evil, sinister character, and it got me thinking about all those incredible murder mysteries and cinematic thrillers. So, I decided to create my own little mystery. In the show notes, you'll see a short story I made up about this lady called Clarisse, who got poisoned at the party, and now everyone is trying to find out who killed her. So, everyone you’re seeing on the runway has just left the event—either terrified or leaving like, 'Where’s the fucker who did this?'"
MJ: Gasps
by Lara Ohl
CC: "I know. Scandalous."
MJ: God, I’ve been waiting for drama all week. Thank you.
CC: Laughs
MJ: Fashion is an escape, kind of like music sometimes. What’s a song you listen to before fashion week, or something we should blast that captures the theme of the show?
CC: "It’s actually my finale song—Ethel Cain’s Crush remixed with Cher’s Believe."
MJ: Oh damn… a HIT.
CC: "It is IT. I’ve played that song so many goddamn times… My show playlists are always just the music I like, basically."
MJ: I know this is about to eat. Eat down. What’s some weird shit you do before a show?
Christian Cowan: Laughs "Some weird shit? I’m just remarkably chill. I’m waking up late. I’m getting coffee with my mum. I’m getting my makeup done. Like, I’m chilling."
MJ: What’s the skincare routine?
CC: "La Roche-Posay." Laughs "But yeah, I’m just super chill on my show day."
MJ: With your new podcast, Talk About Crabs, what inspired you to venture into podcasting, and how does it connect to your creative world as a designer?
CC: "I think as a designer, your voice really is dependent on clothes. Sometimes I want more of a voice outside of the clothes. Just chat shit about things I think are interesting."
MJ: Like that episode with the short interaction with the barista…
CC: Laughs, “No, exactly!”
MJ: I love short interactions like that, and the ones with people in the subway car. So lovely.
CC: "Isn’t it? No expectation. But, yes, the podcast we enjoy. I do it with Natthias, who runs the business. You’ll see him floating around. We have such natural chemistry. We had to capture it on camera."
MJ: Love that.
CC: "It’s so fun."
MJ: Fashion shows are often a complete sensory experience, including music and atmosphere. How do you approach creating the aural experience for your runway shows?
CC: "It’s kind of like an immediate vision for me. It’s like, 'That’s what we’re doing.' I don’t really know where it comes from. It’s like a mashup of dreams. It feels like a daze. I always like a bit of a cinematic experience. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to doing the straight-up-and-down, boring show."
MJ: Looking to the future, what’s a creative project or collaboration you dream of pursuing beyond fashion and podcasting?
CC: "Ooo, I think I’d love to do costume design for a big movie. That’d be fun."
MJ: If your latest collection were a short interaction or a zodiac sign, which one would it be and why? Would it be the barista or would it be the subway car folks who let you into the train?
CC: "Ooooo, this collection as a short interaction is, 'Get the fuck out!' Don’t know why, but it’s, 'Get the fuck out of here!'"
MJ: Who is the ultimate Christian Cowan muse?
CC: "Tina Turner. She’s a dream. I grew up listening to her. I never got to dress her, but yes, Tina."
MJ: Thank you so much. I already know this show, this collection, is going to kill me—in the best possible way.
CC: "It was a pleasure, truly. Thank you so, so much. Enjoy the show."
The show felt like a safe space—a reunion with all your cuntiest cousins at the most glamorous murder mystery party. We were all sipping our Poppi drinks, having a laid-back, fabulous soirée in Christian's backyard. The front row was a glittering who's-who of celebrities, including Law Roach, Laverne Cox, JoJo Siwa, Coco Rocha, Yung Miami, and Kristin Chenoweth—each one part of the night’s magnetic energy. Though the runway sparkled, there was an intimacy, a sense that this wasn’t just a spectacle, but a gathering of fashion's closest circle.
Behind the scenes, a powerhouse team brought it all to life. The styling was the unmistakable work of Christian Cowan, while DJ RaH RahH kept the energy alive with perfectly curated beats. Natthias Mitchinson oversaw casting, bringing together a fierce group of models who embodied the night’s thrilling storyline. Makeup was done by Kanako for Addiction Tokyo, while the models' flawless skin gleamed with help from La Roche-Posay. Hair was crafted by Lacy Redway for Tresemmé, with nails perfected by Julie K Nails NYC. Footwear was provided by Designer Shoe Warehouse (DSW), and umbrellas from ShedRain added an extra layer of drama to the evening’s escape narrative. Jewelry from Astrid and Miyu completed the looks with sparkle. The production came together seamlessly, thanks to The Riviere Agency, with PR expertly handled by Purple PR.
In the end, it was a night of intrigue and glamour, but above all, it was a celebration of fashion as a form of storytelling—where every guest and every look was part of a shared, unforgettable experience.
by Lara Ohl
Images by Sophia Schrank
Images by Lara Ohl