SAGA NYC WITH MONIQUE JOHNSON
MERDE’s newest editor Monique Johnson is the office eyes and ears of all things emerging designer in The Big Apple. For her NYFW debut she kicks off the week interviewing SAGA NYC at their Bow Collection event on Orchard Street. Images were captured by Kana Motojima.
Stepping into the intimate space of "The Gallery" at Chinatown Soup, I was greeted by an air of intimate familiarity, as if the space itself was a long-lost friend welcoming me back. Perhaps it was the cases of mezcal bringing me back to 30th birthday celebrations, or the comfort of the café that echoed the morning after hangover – it was a homecoming of sorts.
Within this space, bows adorned staple garments and accessories in more than just a fashion sense; it was a silent tribute to matriarchy, sparking dialogue about the homogenized notions of femininity, individualism, and the pervasive impact of consumer culture on societal standards (all the shit we should, and NEED to be talking about).
Amidst the creative chaos, "SOUL NOT FOR SALE" books, their pages painted stark white, stood as a metaphor for the commodification of aesthetics and information in contemporary culture, with the designer seemingly masking the wisdom of the past beneath a guise of sterile whimsy.
SAGA NYC's latest offering is a defiant mix of gender-fluid silhouettes, unconventional meshwork, and cleverly reimagined up-cycled pieces, each meticulously fashioned from an eclectic blend of repurposed second-hand clothing, forsaken vintage finds, and local dead-stock materials.
Like the studio on Orchard Street - ablaze with light, small yet perfectly formed - this presentation, this night felt like a sanctuary, much like Sandra's ethos of fostering community through her craft.
Their newest collection titled “BOW” emerges as a stark commentary on patriarchal norms and the diluted symbolism peddled by Western consumerism - a challenge to the established narrative.
In this exclusive Merde Magazine NYFW interview with Sandra Gagalo of SAGA NYC, we delve into the 'BOW' collection, exploring its roots in the intersection of feminism and capitalism, and unveiling the meticulous craftsmanship behind her handmade, sustainability-focused, gender-neutral designs. Amid an era dominated by digital facades that often obscure the raw truth, Sandra's work emerges as a beacon of authenticity and defiance. The 'BOW' collection works threads of rebellion and tradition, offering a cheeky nod to those brave enough to question the fabric of our consumerist landscape. It's not just a fashion statement to gag us – but a salute, a homecoming for the rebels among us, those who wear their authenticity as boldly as a bow, challenging a world too eager to confine us within barcode-laden bullshit.
Sandra Gagalo — Creative Director and Designer of Saga NYC
Monique:
What sparked the inspiration for this collection? I mean, it’s fucking badass.
Sandra:
I think I designed it conceptually. I don't really look at images, per se. It's usually about what I'm thinking and what I'm feeling. It's always a zeitgeist for me. I was thinking a lot about feminism and capitalism and the effects of capitalism on being a woman—and just patriarchy, and how that ties into feminism. Really, just thinking about our society and patriarchy.
Monique:
Yes, continue. Tell me more about the bows.
Sandra:
That's what made me think of bows, because they are like a universal symbol of femininity. It's not something I typically do. I'm very minimalist and edgy, so it was a fun way to break out of my own box and try something new, and get on a trend because I usually don't do that. I was like, "I want to get on a trend and try to go a little more mainstream than what I normally do." Then, "Soul Not For Sale" was just a really funny, kitschy slogan that I think ties everything together.
Monique:
I love that. First of all, "Fuck the patriarchy." My next question leads into your vibe. I saw you're very big on genderless fashion, and my pronouns are she/they. I'm curious, though you're diving into femininity, what's your general approach to making this genderless, as opposed to the traditional norms in the industry?
Sandra
I think it's probably a reflection of how I view gender. I've explored it a lot over the years, so it was just something I started with because it was what I was thinking about. I had a lot of friends who were exploring that as well. It came naturally to me.
I think, just in general, everyone is genderless as a soul, and we're born into bodies. That's why I like to offer what I do; I think "gender-fluid" is probably the best word for it. I think it's fun to explore our femininity and masculinity on a sliding scale. I like to offer pieces for that type of person.
Monique
Fuck, yeah. Okay, this is equally as important, and there's a wrong answer. What's your sign?
Sandra
Scorpio.
Monique:
Oh, excellent answer. I'm a Scorpio, too.
Sandra
I'm attracting all the Scorpios!
Monique
When I walked in, I was like, "Yeah, I just feel like this designer is a Scorpio." If you could describe this collection as the Big Three, what would the BOW Collection's Big Three be?
Sandra
I'm going to say Sagittarius Sun. That's the main one. Then, Scorpio Moon and Virgo Rising.
Monique
That's a hell of a collection. I can definitely see the Sagittarius and Scorpio. I think the earth ties it all together. A collection that knows it's the shit, lights up any room—but doesn't have to prove anything and is a bit mysterious. The ones who get it, get it.
Sandra :
I could see that personality loving all these pieces because they are statement looks, and you need to WANT to be seen.
Monique
Yes. This is definitely a Sag Sun for sure! Describe the SAGA customer as your favorite cocktail.
Sandra
Favorite cocktail? Well, we're doing Mezcal tonight. That is the drink. I'm going to say Mezcal because it's usually made locally, and SAGA is all about sustainability, making everything locally, and I make everything by hand myself. Mezcal is made in small communities in Mexico, and people pray over it. I think it's the only cocktail that's prayed over as part of the process, so that ties it to my spirituality.
Monique
Oh, wow! I had no idea! You really feel that spirit here. Your spirit is beautiful, unique, and authentic. Curious—how do you describe authenticity?
Sandra
I think authenticity... hm... It's about knowing who you are or being very willing to explore and try to find who you are, and that's, I think, how you end up expressing your authenticity.
You can find SAGA NYC at www.saganyc.com and @saganyc on Instagram.
