SS24: BARING IT - A FASHION MONTH REVIEW
A reflection on last month’s SS24 Fashion Shows by MERDE editor Blythe Tokar.
Now that September’s come and gone and been thoroughly discussed with our therapists we can talk about everything that we saw - and it was a lot. There was a stolen collection, mud wrestling, two FKA Twigs performances, and somehow a lot of PETA? But amidst the chaos, there was a sense of connection and authenticity that permeated each city during their respective weeks. Through the actual collections and physical presentations, the SS24 Fashion Month reflected a cultural movement towards vulnerability without fear and reveling in the mess of emotion - tear streaks and all. The biggest trend this season is baring it all: tighter hemlines and looser heartstrings, chainmail and love letters.
Photo: Glen Luchford, 1995 / bjork.fr/Glen-Luchford-1995
This concept shows up in other parts of culture; from trauma dumping on TikTok to the rise in bimbocore, people are embodying their true selves. This has created a desire for a deeper sense of authenticity and has inspired the resurgence of vulnerability as a form of coolness. Think Cobra Snake style photography, Peter Do referencing Tumblr as his first introduction to Helmut Lang, and Olivia Rodrigo’s new album, aptly named Guts…for spilling. I mean, even Rick Owens said in his show notes that he was inspired by a Bjork concert and witnessing her ‘life affirming energy’ that made him embarrassed of his own pessimism. So it’s only fitting that we’ve seen the sartorial adaptation to this mindset.
Photo: Grace Ling SS24 / instagram.com/gracelingofficial
Although clothes have often been thought of as armor or a way to shield yourself from the world, this year’s shows stripped down those ideals. Even as workwear continues to show up in ready-to-wear, proving there’s still something to be said for literal protective gear, this season, collections embraced showing the world your whole self through what you wear, instead of hiding behind it. If Rick can open up, so can we.
Photo: Collina Strada SS24 / vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/collina-strada
Collina Strada’s models embodied this as they came down the runway and posed in the same pained expression, clenched fists, and million-dollar smiles; their ‘real faces’. In a similar way, models at Mowalola sported broken noses and black eyes in lieu of makeup. Both brands evoked a sense of the-world-is-burning-and-I-have-$64-dollars-for-the-rest-of-the-week-but-let-me-just-model-these-clothes-real-quick. Whether through playful colors and renaissance style draping or dirty denim and bisected pieces, each collection expresses the emotions behind getting dressed and offers a simple solution: put on whatever you want, it doesn’t really matter. It’s funny and kind of sad and honestly uncomfortable but that’s the point.
Photo: Mowalola SS24 / instagram.com/mowalola
The uncomfortability continued at Elena Valez as Jose Criales-Unzeuta, a Fashion News Writer at Vogue Runway, notes that she “wants you to feel uncomfortable”. After warning attendees to not mind the mess, models draped in gauzy silhouettes and undone motifs trudged through ankle deep mud and wore it almost as an accessory. Her show notes described the collection as a “creative interpretation of the reorganization of contemporary society around feminine expressions of control and behavioral modeling” which was striking as the show ended with an actual mud fight. It’s giving on the verge but make it fashion.
Photo: Elena Valez SS24 / Jade Greene/WWD via Getty Images)
In a similar way, AVAVAV used their collection to respond to today’s societal standards and pressures with their physical garments and show production. This season, they felt the demand of a consumer and capitalist driven market and struggled with the concept that there was no time to do anything amidst everything that had to be done (mood). So creative director Beate Karlsson got real with the industry, and sent out disheveled models that were half-dressed in ‘unfinished garments’, reflecting how many of us feel going through life not wanting to hide how insane it’s making us.
Photo: AVAVAV SS24 / vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/avavav
Peter Do isn’t interested in hiding either, although it’s not exhaustion with an outdated industry but love and self acceptance that he’s reveling in. His guest collection for Helmut Lang titled ‘Born to Go’ takes wearing your heart on your sleeve to a new level as poems by collaborator, author Ocean Vuong, were emblazoned on the chest of various pieces as well as printed on the concrete floor of the venue. Although the pieces weren’t baring it in as much of a literal sense, the androgynous fits and bondage style seatbelt straps felt open minded and self affirming - although I wasn’t expecting to panic when I saw ‘when was the last time you were you?’ printed on a tank top.
Photo: Helmut Lang SS24 / instagram.com/helmutlang
This season produced a lot of panic; the environmental impact of fashion weeks continues to be a huge barrier to continuance for many ...and Tabi’s are still having a moment. But if we’re all panicking isn’t it like no one is? So despite your Miu Miu girl, grungification, [fill in the blank] core proclivities, taking off the proverbial armor and finding a way to add vulnerability and authenticity to your closet is the best way to avoid the void. This season, embrace the mess; lay out all of your clothes on the floor and roll around in them until an outfit feels right, get a tattoo of a notes app poem you wrote at 1:43am, and find community through the clothes you wear.