Interview by Christiaan Pienaar

Christin Rothe has made a name for herself in the Berlin Fashion Scene and beyond through her handmade silicon based slimy imitations of designer bags. MERDE gave Christin’s studio a visit to learn about her creative process and the spark behind ‘Trolli Couture.’

MERDE: How did you start working with Silicone? What was the first thing you made?

Christin: The Frist things I made were fails. I started working with silicone during my studies for product design. I was always into handy work and experimented in many fields. One day a friend of mine gave me a 5l canister of one-component silicone. I started experimenting and I tried to mold different containers like glasses and vases. The silicone my friend gave me was behaving different than I expected. It was extremely runny at first and became rock hard after it hardened. This made it impossible to separate the molds from the objects I was trying to shape. I started to research a silicone that matches my idea and since I found it, I just couldn’t stop.

MERDE: Why silicone?

Christin: I like working with silicone for several reasons. Silicone also has its limits of accuracy (the way I work with it) and this imperfection adds character to the pieces. It also fits my personality as a messy person/worker, and it allows me to embrace the spontaneity and unpredictability of the creative process. I mostly don’t work with sketches. Another big advantages of working with silicone is the quick possibility to materialize an idea. It's a versatile material that allows me to experiment with different forms and textures, and I can easily mold and shape it to my liking.

MERDE: Why do you copy designer handbags?

Christin: Copying designer bags is just one aspect of my work. In fact, it all started with a collaboration with Novembre magazine in 2021, for which I produced reproductions of designer handbags for the first time. For me, these copies are not just imitations, but rather a study of the original pieces. I am interested in the

questions of authorship and originality, and exploring the point at which an interpretation crosses the line into plagiarism. Finally, I enjoy taking classic objects and changing the material to see the effect it has on their appearance and meaning.

MERDE: What would you define yourself as? A designer? Artist?

Christin: Most of my works have a practical use and are everyday objects. My production is also oriented to classic craftsmanship. Actually, it is only the material that pulls my pieces out of the classic design / craft context. I see myself more as a designer whose works are at the intersection to art.

MERDE: Why the name Trolli Couture?

Christin: The name Trolli has three sources and popped up in my head one day:

1. trolls from nordic mythology: basically like a human only built differently with knobbly noses. Not necessarily as the monster troll but rather smaller, clever creatures that live as a community in the forest. The troll figure in the photo is an heirloom from my grandmother, which I associate very much with my childhood.

2. sweets of the brand Trolli: They are even more artificial than any other candy. Somehow cheekier. I like that.

3. troll factory: The materials that I work with are sourced from a dealer known as the Troll Factory. That's where it comes full circle.

In the beginning, my brand was simply called Trolli. The couture came later when I produced a series imitating classic fabrics and patterns in silicone. The name remained.

MERDE: Describe your process in short?

Christin: I have two main techniques:

The first technique you can compare to a shoe maker working with a last. I have a mold and around it I put the silicone. The second technique you can compare to a tailor working with a pattern. By pinning together connection points (like buttonholes and buttons, only made of silicone), the surface becomes a volume.

I then color the silicone with pigments and adjust the consistency as I need it to be. I shape the material by pouring it or I use syringes and spatulas as tools.

MERDE: What inspires you?

Christin: To find inspiration for my work, I like to browse through antiquarian book stores related to art and traditional crafts. I find myself drawn to pieces from the distant past more than those from the present day. I believe that there is a great deal of value in looking to the past for inspiration and incorporating traditional techniques into modern-day art and design.

Working alongside other creatives from diverse fields, such as performance or design, is also an incredible source of inspiration for me.

MERDE: What is the future of Trolli Couture?

Christin: I’m currently working on adapting my techniques so that they can be implemented by others in the future. My goal is to have a bag designed by me and produced in collaboration with a workshops or social institutions. Then I also have time to focus more on new projects. I have a long list of things that I want to realize in silicone. Its not just bags but also costumes – my first one is already in the making – vases and other homeware.

Christiaan: Do you see yourself as part of the fashion industry?

Christin: Yes, I do in a way. But I would say that it depends on what the people, who end up coming into contact with the bags, make of it. My designs in particular are usually seen in a fashion context. Many of my pieces were featured in music videos and editorials. Besides that I also exhibited my work in art exhibitions. I would say that Trolli Couture can be classified in several areas/industries.